There are entirely too many kits to list them all here and we frankly don’t have the resources to test them to determine how well they work. To simplify things, several manufacturers like Holley and Edelbrock have come up with mounting kits.
#700R4 TRANSMISSION LINES TV#
Most often this also means that we will need a mount to position the TV cable assembly next to the carburetor. It is critical that the placement of the TV cable on the throttle linkage be accurately placed to duplicate the OE movement of the throttle as it opens. Aftermarket carburetors like a Holley or an Edelbrock do not create a proper locating position for the TV cable because these carburetors were designed and built before the TV cable was created. Problems arise when hot rodders start changing components like carburetors or intake manifolds. As the throttle opens, this pulls on the cable which moves the throttle valve inside the transmission valve body and increases line pressure.Īll of this works very well in the stock OE configurations because the GM engineers worked out the details. On the other end, the cable is directly attached to the throttle valve that adjusts line pressure in the transmission, much like the vacuum modulator did on earlier automatics. On the top of the engine, the TV cable is connected to the throttle arm on the carburetor or throttle body if the engine is EFI. The TV cable on the 700-R4 and its cousin the 200-4R overdrive transmissions replaced the old vacuum modulator valve as the device used by the transmission to sense the load applied to the transmission. This is a complex issue with a ton of other potential causes but we’re going to go with the best option of making sure the TV cable is properly adjusted because this is often where big problems begin. This sounds like a classic case of an incorrectly adjusted TV cable. Yes and hopefully you have not hurt the transmission in the process. We were thinking that maybe the torque converter is a little too soft and that’s causing the weak shifts.
My problem is the transmission doesn’t seem to be as strong on the up shifts as it should be. The engine runs fine with a set of Edelbrock heads and Performer RPM intake and a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carburetor.
Use the first part of the double flare process to put a slight bump flare on the line ends when using rubber hose anywhere in the line.ĭoing a single flare puts the sharp metal edge of the hard line solidly against the rubber hose where it can eventually cut its way thru the rubber hose and cause it to fail.Īlso a bump flare is much easier to put the hose onto without damage as it has a smooth edge profile.I’ve got a 700-R4 in my Chevy C10 pickup behind a typical 383ci small-block Chevy. Oh yes.about flaring your hard lines slightly to keep rubber hose in place. (Not saying yours can't.just that you need to know for sure!) You may actually need to rethink your entire hard tube system.or go with a less eye appealing flexible hose that can accept a clamp joint.
Your hose choice should be the deciding factor in how joints are made. Is it conformable to being forced over a bump flare on your metal lines and clamped or is it really meant to use some form of mechanical joint? My concern would be the liner material inside the SS hose your hoping to use. You can add a trans cooler with properly rated rubber hose as a joiner. I don't think there's too much pressure in the lines.
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